The very intensely oaky 2015 Vinya Palau Merlot has aromas of charred wood, cigar ash, incense, dark chocolate, roasted coffee beans and cracked peppercorns—mostly about the barrique, with just a balsamic hint and blackberry fruit from the variety. The palate reveals abundant, dusty tannins and detached acidity. For fans of oaky reds.

The 2011 Vinya Palau Merlot is sourced from a single vineyard on clay, chalk and sand soils that matured in French barriques or one year. The nose shows lots of iron and blood, and none of the herbal aromas you'd expect from the Bordeaux grape. 2011 was certainly warm, and the Merlot must have ripened fully. The variety is more noticeable in the medium to full-bodied palate where I found the tannins of the grape and some classical flavors of the élevage, lead pencil and cedar wood. Polished and approachable. 13,000 bottles produced.

The 2009 Vinya Palau Merlot, from a vineyard planted in 1991, is aged for 12 months in French oak barrels and has a sweet nose of cassis, bell pepper, cranberries and nutmeg, with some lactic overtones. The palate is medium-bodied, with polished tannins, easy to drink. Drink now. Jean Leon belongs to the Torres family. They have revamped their image and they are using old black and white photographs as well as modernist Catalan designs on their labels. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

The 2007 Vinya Palau Merlot gives up aromas of cinnamon, clove, and rosemary along with cassis and black currant notes. In the glass it opens to reveal a broad palate, savory, spicy red fruit flavors, and good balance. It is likely to evolve for 2-3 years and offer prime drinking from 2012 to 2019. The real life Jean Leon was a bon-vivant from Penedes who, before establishing his winery, ventured to Beverly Hills where he opened a restaurant (still in existence) called La Scala in partnership with James Dean. It proved to be a popular hangout for many of the movie stars of the era as shown in the photos contained in the small museum at the winery. My first exposure to high-end fine dining was at this restaurant in 1965 when I was a student at UCLA. I had no idea of this connection until my visit in January, 2011. Jean Leon (the man) is deceased and ownership of the winery has passed to Penedes giant Torres which has continued its operation as a boutique producer.Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

A dry red, with clean fruit flavors of plum and cherry. It's straightforward, with light tannins on the finish. Drink now. 2,300 cases made.??–AN??Region: Spain / Penedès Select to Add