The late-harvest Aurum is Josef Ehmoser’s flagship. The newly released 2008 is bold and ripe, the acidity of the intense fruit cutting through herbs, spice, vanilla and tropical fruits. It is definitely from super-ripe fruit, but Ehmoser manages to retain a delicious balance. Screwcap. Imported by Magellan Wine Imports.——R.V.(10/1/2009)—— 92

Despite its high alcohol, this wine manages to preserve its balance. That’s because the Gruner acidity creeps through the weight. With his top wine, Ehmoser goes for a tropical fruit profile here, with mangos on top of vanilla and spice. There’s structure too, which suggests this powerful wine could age for 2–3 years.——R.V.(12/31/2007)—— 91