I generally felt the Grand Reserve series to be one of the most successful groups of wines from Kendall-Jackson. All of the offerings reviewed in this segment tend to be above average in quality, but they did not possess the breadth of flavor and aromatic dimension I had anticipated. The 1995 Cabernet Franc Grand Reserve exhibits a strawberry and berry-scented nose, medium body, and an elegant, light style. It is very perfumed and attractive in a low key sort of way. It should drink well for 4-5 years. As well as Kendall-Jackson's Artisans and Estates wines performed in my tastings, the overall quality level of KJ's Vintner's Reserve and Grand Reserve offerings was less impressive than in previous vintages. Tel. (800) 769-3649; Fax (707) 579-3419

The 1994 Cabernet Franc Grand Reserve is uninteresting. It is compact and compressed, with little fruit, flesh, or character.The Grand Reserves are both expensive and inconsistent. The finest Grand Reserves to date have been Kendall-Jackson's Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and plump, often outstanding Chardonnay. To this trio, they have added an impressive Grand Reserve Viognier. But readers should exercise caution with respect to their Nebbiolo and Cabernet Franc.Kendall-Jackson, which has created justifiable excitement with their portfolio of single winery estate-bottled, high quality wines known collectively as the Artisans and Estates group, continues to offer a major line-up of varietal wines, as well as a proprietary red, all under the K-J label. I am of three minds about these wines. First, the Vintner's Reserve series has consistently offered consumers reasonably good value for the price. As with most California wines, prices have crept higher, but bargains still exist. The more expensive Grand Reserve series is next in the K-J hierarchy. This is more of a hit or miss category. The selections are generally well-made, but some of these decidedly one-dimensional wines fetch a lofty $40 a bottle. My favorite wine in this series tends to be the Chardonnay. The most disappointing offerings are Kendall-Jackson's flirtation with such esoteric varietals as Nebbiolo and Cabernet Franc. At the top level are the proprietary wines, the white Royale and red Cardinale. Since the early nineties, the Cardinale has been excellent, often outstanding. The first vintages of Royale look to be equally fine efforts.Tel. (707) 263-9333; Fax (707) 263-6817

While Cabernet Franc should be intense, it will never be a full-bodied, blockbuster style of wine. Kendall-Jackson has produced a fine, representative 1992 Cabernet Franc from a blend of grapes grown in Sonoma's Knights Valley and Alexander Valley. The wine displays a healthy dark ruby color, and an intriguing, classy nose of spices, menthol, and black fruits. Medium-bodied, with fine intensity, good underlying acidity, and a crisp, rich, berry fruitiness, this seductive and complex wine should drink well for 7-8 years. Kendall-Jackson continues to show remarkable improvement with their red wines, which are less manipulated and less acidified than in the past. The results speak for themselves. The wines possess a more natural texture, as well as more savory, complex palates.Tel. (707) 263-9333