Kerpen Bernkasteler Bratenhofchen Riesling Eiswein One Star

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Comprising the first half of juice that ran from the press on December 19, Kerpen’s “one-star” 2009 Bernkasteler Bratenhofchen Riesling Eiswein* is in another world from its hours-younger, “no-star” sibling, creamy richness and confectionary sweetness somehow inextricably and synergistically linked in an embrace, with fresh dark berries and brilliant citricity that is as scintillating as it is seductive. Pineapple, lime, and cassis are the principle players in a wine whose only weaknesses is to lack the complexity of the best Mosel Riesling. In other respects, this impeccably pure and startlingly concentrated (6.5% alcohol) elixir – cloud-like in its buoyancy, yet throwing lightning-bolts of ripe acidity – is a nearly picture-perfect Eiswein. Try to nab one of the fewer then 300 bottles of it on release; don’t wait to long to enjoy that bottle; but if you have back-up bottles, here is one of those rare frozen Rieslings that might well merit several decades of cellaring and become yet more complex and refined. Martin Kerpen’s 2009 collection Rieslings possess uncommon brightness for their vintage, and he continues to excel across a blessedly broad stylistic range, from legally trocken through nobly sweet – and, more importantly, with plenty of successful stops in-between. It’s worth noting that Kerpen is especially keen on the quality of his nobly sweet 2009s – wines that are certainly close to off-the-charts on paper – although as readers can see, my praise for them is more selective.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300