Kabinett 同類的干型酒略顯尖酸，質(zhì)感粗糙，特性突兀，但仍帶著普遍的蘋果、香草和板巖的風(fēng)味，另外一款同類的“常規(guī)”遲摘酒僅僅在酒的質(zhì)地上有所改進(jìn)。Kerpen 2010 年的 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese trocken Alte Reben 更加圓熟，帶有奶香。酒中帶有鮮明的碎石味道，蘋果、板巖和強(qiáng)烈濃郁的堅果油風(fēng)味持久，值得認(rèn)真品嘗。最佳飲用期：2 至 3 年內(nèi)。

A Kerpen 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese trocken Alte Reben – from two ideally-situated parcels with old vines – smells of ripe peach with pungent overtones of peat and brown spices, suggesting a hint of botrytis. It’s lush on the palate, with salt, crushed stone, toasted nuts, peat, and the bitter side of the vanilla bean all contributing to a low-toned, long finish. There is no warmth from the wine’s 13% alcohol, but neither is there the elegance or refreshment that characterizes Kerpen’s trocken bottlings at their best. I’d plan to drink it over the next 3-4 years. Martin Kerpen’s 2009 collection Rieslings possess uncommon brightness for their vintage, and he continues to excel across a blessedly broad stylistic range, from legally trocken through nobly sweet – and, more importantly, with plenty of successful stops in-between. It’s worth noting that Kerpen is especially keen on the quality of his nobly sweet 2009s – wines that are certainly close to off-the-charts on paper – although as readers can see, my praise for them is more selective.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

A wonderfully effusive nose of Normandy apple cider, heliotrope, and apple blossom in the Kerpen 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese trocken Alte Reben leads to a creamy yet refreshing palate with deep nut oil and vanilla-tinged apple fruit. Cyanic hints of peach kernel and apple pit along with salt serve for invigoration and extension of a long, lip-smacking finish that is at the same time soothing thanks to this Riesling's remarkable textural allure. Here, too, is a remarkable transparency to inner-mouth floral suggestions and myriad mineral nuances of saline, stony, and alkaline nature that suffuse the wine's rich bath of fruit. The finest Kerpen trocken of my experience (and, I gather, his), this should be worth following for at least half a dozen years, but on no account ought one to miss out on its youthful pleasures. In recent years, Martin Kerpen has increasingly proven himself a master of dry Riesling, and the acid structure and relatively moderate accumulation of grape sugar relative to phenolic ripeness that characterize 2008 played into his skilled hand in that genre, in which, additionally, he relied increasingly this year on ambient yeasts. (Of course, he is adept with residually sweet Riesling as well.) it's interesting to study Kerpen's detailed map of vineyard parcels, incidentally, and to see how after the controversial Flurbereinigung or general vineyard restructuring and replanting that is now under way in Wehlen, he will end up with around 8-9 parcels - some identical to his current acreage - or about half the number into which his total landholdings are morsellated at present.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

While I unfortunately missed out on a chance to taste its 2006 predecessor, Kerpen’s 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese trocken Alte Reben – actually representing a cask-selection, although the vines are certainly old – may a few years to show its superiority over the corresponding “regular” bottling, which at the moment is somewhat more expressive and site-typical. In this “old vines” version, melon, almond, and hazelnut dominate in the nose and on a flatteringly silken-textured palate, with subdued suggestions of wet stone underlying the wine’s nutty finish. While Martin Kerpen’s extensive array of dry Rieslings from 2007 is not on quite the superlative order of their immediate predecessors, his residually sweet wines are again highly successful.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300