The 2010 Riesling is a big, rich wine that shows the effects of extended aging on the lees and batonnage. The wine’s power and depth are commendable, but much of the intensity has been achieved at the expense of varietal definition. This might merit a higher score if the fruit begins to emerge, which is possible given that I tasted the wine just a few weeks after it had been bottled. In 2010 the estate harvested the Riesling in three picks, with naturally higher sugars in the later picks. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. In just a few years this small, family-run estate in the Valle Isarco has established itself as one of the top wineries in Italy. The Kerschbaumer family used to sell their grapes the nearby Abbazia di Novacella, (which is visible from their property) but now bottle on their own. Proprietor Gunther Kerschbaumer makes wines that are on the rich side for the appellation. He favors aging on the lees although the malos are blocked. A number of the wines are partially aged in oak or acacia casks. The 2010 harvest took place the first week of October, later than normal by recent historical standards.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: De Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The 2008 Riesling needs a bit of time to open up yet it remains rather reticent, with occasional hints of apples and jasmine that come through. Today it is quite similar to the Veltiner in its distinctly floral qualities. This is one of the few Alto Adige whites that actually needs bottle age; the 2006, which I tasted alongside the 2008, was in a much more expressive place, with all of the typical varietal Riesling notes on full display. Readers who can wait won't be disappointed. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016.Kofererhof is located in Valle Isarco, one of the most privileged spots in Alto Adige for intensely focused, mineral-driven whites. Proprietor Gunther Kerschbaumer began estate-bottling his own wines with the 1995 vintage, and since then Kofererhof has emerged as one of Italy's most exciting properties. Unfortunately only a few of the 2008s were in bottle as we went to press, but I hope to be able to taste the rest of the estate's current releases in the near future.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The 2007 Riesling is wonderful. The wine exhibits notable inner sweetness and perfume that gradually comes forward as the wine opens up in the glass. This medium-bodied, somewhat restrained Riesling offers plenty of poise to match its outstanding overall harmony. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. This small estate has come on strong in recent years with a number of delicious wines. The 2007s come across as slightly heavy compared to the 2005s and 2006s.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411