Dark in color, almost red, and you might mistake it, blind-smelling, for a Pinot Noir, except for the doughy scent. Drinks rich and full-bodied, with raspberry-strawberry flavors. What’s neat about this bubbly is that your mouth can’t figure out if it’s dry or off-dry. It straddles that mysterious line perfectly. ——S.H.(12/1/2002)—— 85