The 1992 Bodenheimer Heitersbrunnchen Scheurebe Kabinett reveals the typical exotic, lush Scheurebe perfume. This dry, rich, medium-bodied wine possesses tons of fruit; it should be drunk over the next several years. Readers should put to good use the fact that this under-rated producer tends to sell its wines at relatively low prices. Importer: Chapin Cellars Ltd., Virginia Beach, VA.

Kuhling-Gillot produces sexy, seductive wines with intensely aromatic noses and excellent clean, rich fruit. The dry 1991 Bodenheimer Heitersbrunnchen Scheurebe Kabinett exhibits a stunning nose that soars from the glass with aromas of spring flowers and fruit. There is super-richness and a long, zesty, delicious finish. Drink it over the next year. Importer: Chapin Cellars, Virginia Beach, VA.