Kunstler’s finished 2005 Pinot Noirs are now in bottle, and impressive in a somewhat somber way. His 2005 Hochheimer Reichestal Spatburgunder trocken R features bitter-edged cassis and blackberry fruit; a concentrated palate impression, with smoky and alkaline suggestions; and a finish of considerable tanninity but admirable clarity, with chalky, meaty, and subtly tart undertones. Give this at least 2-3 years in the cellar and then savor it over a comparable period of time. Imported: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463