Alberdi from La Rioja Alta is a slight throwback. The nose has more than a twinge of tomato leaf, wet clay, tobacco and raisin, but also maturity and floral notes akin to a good Burgundy. Meanwhile, the palate pitches tomato leaf, cranberry, tobacco and dried plum flavors. A little bit light and reedy by modern standards, but alluring as well. Drink now. A Europvin, Christopher Cannan selection, imported by multiple importers, including Michael Skurnik Wines.——M.S.(12/15/2008)—— 88