The 2006 Syrah Barrett Vineyard, from the estate’s home site in Calistoga, possesses a dense ruby/purple color as well as a more floral, juicy berry-scented nose and more rustic tannins. It appears to be made for longer aging. Not as bold or exuberant as the Napa cuvee, but richer and more structured than the Santa Ynez, it will benefit from another year or so of bottle age, and keep for up to a decade. La Sirena’s Heidi Barrett has turned out a wonderful “grog” made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Grenache and Petite Sirah.Tel. (707) 942-1105; Fax (707) 942-9390

The 2005 Syrah Barrett Vineyard is a meaty, earthy, Northern Rhone-styled effort displaying notions of tapenade, pepper, bouquet garni, and sweet black fruits along with moderate tannin and a long finish. This will be the least accessible of this trio in its youth as well as the longest-lived. Anticipated maturity: now-2015. La Sirena is the personal project of Heidi Barrett, the well-known wine consultant and wife of Chateau Montelena’s Bo Barrett. The three Syrah cuvees range from vineyards in the southern Santa Ynez region, to the northern end of Napa Valley from the Barrett Vineyard in Calistoga. All three are differentTel. (707) 942-1105; Fax (707) 942-9390

The home vineyard Syrah, the 2004 Syrah Barrett Vineyard is surprisingly elegant for one of the hotter areas of Napa Valley. This medium-bodied wine reveals somewhat angular tannins, but good black currant and cherry notes intermixed with hints of chocolate, pepper, and spice. Tel. (707) 942-1105; Fax (707) 942-9390

From Heidi Barrett’s estate vineyard in Calistoga, this Syrah is very rich and appealing. What it lacks in complex subtlety it makes up for in immediate chocolate-inspired blackberry jam and mushu plum flavors. Firmly tannic, it might age for a while, but will show best now through 2012.——S.H.(12/31/2008)—— 91