An homage to Barolo, the so-called "king of wines," this magnum features a lion on its front label instead of the estate's trademark rhinoceros. The La Spinetta 2009 Barolo Riserva Campè Vürsù (Magnum) is a rare and precious wine with only 600 magnums in existence. Its sheer power roars from within, thanks to a long series of dark and variety-driven aromas. Dried cherry, blackberry, tilled earth, black licorice, exotic spice and campfire ash play leading roles. This vintage also presents balsamic tones of cola, dried ginger and grilled rosemary. It wraps thickly over the palate with integrated tannins and rich textural support.

The 2008 Barolo Riserva Campè Vürsù (Magnum) seems to be the most evolved and nuanced of all of the offerings from La Spinetta in this tasting. It is a dark and well-saturated red wine that just keeps on giving. As this wine continues to unfold over the next decade, watch for more extraordinary notes of pipe tobacco, cola, licorice and hopefully some retained earthy tones of truffle and herb. This magnum would be a treasure in any cellar.

I tasted some beautiful Barbarescos before this sample, but the power and the vigor of the Barolo appellation comes through with undeniable clarity here. The 2007 Barolo Riserva Campè Vürsù (Magnum) is a wine of muscle, brawn and fortitude. It shows more textural tightness and density than the Barbarescos of the same vintage (also in magnum) that are softer and more streamlined in comparison. This gorgeous bottle opens to dark fruit, black currant, spice, cola and earthy truffle. Ultimately, this wine's most memorable quality is the velvety, tightly-knit nature of its mouthfeel.

Tasted from magnum, the 2005 Barolo Riserva Vigneto Campè Vürsù exhibits a dark, brooding and impenetrable personality. This is a broad and sweeping expression of Nebbiolo that rests on big shoulders and significant muscle mass. The nose is redolent of black fruit, blackberry preserves, tar, licorice, brown sugar, pipe tobacco and white truffle. It is structured and firm on the palate, but it also imparts velvety softness and silkiness. This wine offers a complete package and reveals a fascinating view onto ten-year-old Barolo that was specifically engineered for aging in magnum. The brightness and freshness of the wine makes it feel ten years younger.

The 2004 Barolo Campe Riserva is noticeably fresher and more vibrant than the non-riserva Barolo. The wine’s telltale overripe aromatics are present, bu here they meld seamlessly into a palate of sweet perfumed fruit. The finessed tannins are well-integrated and help to balance the wine with exquisite grace. This is a superb effort from Giorgio Rivetti. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. Giorgio Rivetti has another set of very solid wines on his hands with his 2005 Barbarescos. The wines have always shown terrific balance and are just a notch or two below his 2004s.Importer: Indigenous Selection, Fort Lauderdale FL; tel. (954) 963-6251