The 2013 Barolo Sori Gepin is the nicest bottle in this mini vertical from La Spinona. It is the most fresh, compact or complete wine of the group, with a tighter core. It holds itself together well, with focus and sharpness.

This is a fine and elegant wine with an understated personality that grows on you the longer you contemplate the contents of your glass. The 2010 Barolo Sori Gepin reveals a very tight and polished feel with integrated notes of dried fruit, licorice and smoke. There is a pretty spot of crisp acidity that gives the wine a lively, bright approach. Some 3,500 bottles were made.

Aged in large oak casks for two years, the 2009 Barolo Sori Gepin is a fluid and generous expression with dark berry tones, spice, leather and tobacco. The wine shows dark concentration with a thick velvety texture. This aged Barolo delivers the power and the muscle of the warm vintage. Bottle production is 3,500 units strong.

Worn-in leather, tobacco, incense and smoke are some of the notes that emerge as the 2008 Barolo Sori Gepin opens up in the glass. This is a decidedly medium-bodied wine from La Spinona, but here, too, all the elements are in sync. The tannins, so often a problem here, are firm yet polished. Today the 2008 is quite classic in personality, but it won’t take forever to come around. In fact, it is already delicious right now. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2023. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

The 2007 Barolo Sori Gepin is a plush, deep wine loaded with sweet dark cherries, menthol, licorice and leather. Stylistically it is quite similar to the 2007 Barbaresco Faset, but naturally with the greater heft and structure of Barolo. Layers of radiant fruit flesh out beautifully all the way through to the finish, all supported by firm, insistent tannins. The Sori Gepin is quite classic and beautiful, assuming readers can handle the tannins. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. La Spinona is a curious producer. The wines often show very attractive fruit, yet they are typically very austere, even within the context of traditionally-made Barbaresco and Barolo. Personally, I believe there is a lot of untapped potential here. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700