There’s some barnyardy funk to this Pinot, the kind of mushroom scent some people call Burgundian. Fortunately, the flavors in midpalate turn to richer cherries, even a taste of cherry cheesecake. The Martin Ray Clone, which is actually a selection, not a clone, is old by California standards, and of uncertain origin, although suspected to have come from superior vineyards in Burgundy.——S.H.(12/1/2008)—— 87