2021 was an excellent vintage in South Australia (you may tire of reading that soon), and this 2021 Riesling Old Vine shows the effects of a long, cool, even ripening season. In the mouth, the wine is austere and restrained—it curves along the track with a fine web of acidity within the lean fruit. The vines were planted in 1974 on terra rossa soil, which imbues the wine with a density of structure and minerality of flavor. There is a lemongrass/weed character through the finish that I am uncertain about; perhaps in a year or two the wine will have evolved past this.

Scented of lime cordial, lemon curd and honeysuckle with a touch of coriander seed, the 2013 Old Vines Riesling is dry and light-bodied with a refreshing line of racy acidity and a good intensity of citrus flavors, finishing long. Drink it now to 2018+. Importer: The Ravensvale Group, Naples, FL; tel. (800) 580-0052

The 2011 Old Vines Riesling gives a slightly mute nose of green apples, musk, honeyed white peaches and white blossoms. Dry and light to medium-bodied, it gives a good concentration of taut, steely flavors with very crisp acid and a long finish. Approachable now, it should cellar to 2017+. Importer: The Ravensvale Group, Naples, FL; tel. (800) 580-0052

The 2010 Old Vines Riesling has aromas of lime cordial, pink grapefruit and honeysuckle with a hint of crushed stones. Dry and medium-bodied with plenty of citrusy fruit in the mouth, it has a good line of crisp acid and a long, zesty finish. Drinking now, it should cellar to 2016+. Importer: The Ravensvale Group, Naples, FL; tel. (800) 580-0052

Leconfield’s 2006 Riesling Old Vine reveals attractive, crisp notes of flowers, green apples, and under ripe melon. Slight off dry with good acidity, it is a Kabinett-styled Riesling to drink over the next year. Importer: Jane Delaney, The Ravensvale Group, Greenwich, CT; tel. (800) 580-0052