The dark-skinned Fumin grape was traditionally used as a blending agent, but it is now often featured as a monovarietal wine. The Les Crêtes 2018 Valle d'Aosta Fumin sits pretty in the glass, reflecting dark nuances of ruby and crimson. The wine shows fruity tones of plum and blackcurrant, but you also get a whiff of the crushed white peppercorn that I often find in the indigenous grapes of Italy. This release of about 14,000 bottles is lean-bodied and would easily pair with a wide assortment of local dishes, including the unforgettable pizzoccheri buckwheat pasta.

Les Crêtes presents a very steady and attractive interpretation of the unique and rare Fumin grape that is only found in this isolated corner of northern Italy. The 2009 Valle d'Aosta Fumin exhibits sweet cherry flavors backed by exotic spice and powdered cinnamon. The wine offers good richness and layering in the mouth, although the complexity is moderate. The finish is soft and round. It ages in French oak for nine months.

The 2008 Fumin is a striking wine laced with violets, tar, smoke and sweet dark cherries, all of which come together in a weightless, feminine style that is incredibly appealing. This highly unique, compelling red possesses gorgeous inner perfume and a silky, totally refined finish, both of which contribute to the wine’s fabulous overall balance. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. No one has done more to put the Valle d’Aosta on the map of consumers in this country than Les Cretes and proprietor Costantino Charrere. This is a strong set of new releases that highlight the unique qualities of the Valle d’Aosta’s many indigenous red and white varieties. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799