The 2010 Torrette bursts from the glass with dark red fruits, grilled herbs, earthiness, tobacco and flowers. Expressive aromatics are woven throughout, giving the wine an attractive sense of lift. As always, the tannins are a bit rough around the edges, but at the end of the day, it is the intensity of the fruit and the wine’s overall personality that are most convincing. There will always be an element of wildness here, but that is part of the wine’s DNA. The Torrette is 70% Petit Rouge and 30% other indigenous varieties, and is aged exclusively in stainless steel. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. No one has done more to put the Valle d’Aosta on the map of consumers in this country than Les Cretes and proprietor Costantino Charrere. This is a strong set of new releases that highlight the unique qualities of the Valle d’Aosta’s many indigenous red and white varieties. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2007 Torrette Vigne Les Toules is a dark, earthy wine loaded with fruit made in a relatively big, muscular style. The wine shows elements of wildness that recall the Pinots of Gevrey, yet there is plenty of density, length and texture to be found, just a touch of elegance in the aromas and flavors seems missing. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2017. From top to bottom this is a superb set of wines from Les Cretes that form essential drinking for readers who want to learn more about the wines of Valle d’Aosta. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2006 Torrette Vigne Les Toules (Petit Rouge) displays prominent sauvage notes, particularly on the nose. The wine cleans up a little in the glass, though, where red cherries, flowers and spices emerge with good clarity. The wine offers a unique expression of this indigenous grape, but readers will have to look past the rustic qualities that are present. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2005 Torrette is made predominantly from Petit Rouge, the most widely planted variety in the Valle d-Aosta. It exhibits the essence of earthiness, game, herbs, dark berries, flowers and spices on a medium-bodied frame, with a rustic, rough around the edges personality. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2012. Les Cretes is undoubtedly the best-known estate in the Valle d-Aosta. Proprietor Costantino Charrere makes a wide range of wines from both indigenous and international varieties. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799