A production of about 18,000 bottles, the Les Crêtes 2019 Valle d'Aosta Pinot Nero is a vibrant and expressive wine that shows an extra sleek and slender side of this delicate grape. As it warms in the glass, the wine reveals forest cherry fruit, blue flowers and lots of honey. (I am reminded of chestnut honey or one of the darker, viscous kinds.) The effect is beautiful, and the wine replays that palate silkiness to be enjoyed by the hearth with an easy side of speck, local cheese and honey.

The 2016 Valle d'Aosta Pinot Nero is a very respectable interpretation of a grape that often challenges the most determined winemakers. What stands out most here is the purity of those varietal aromas. Cherry blossom, forest berry and wild violets are revealed with natural abundance and purity. There is nothing forced about this wine. It just is: naked, transparent and glorious. Some 21,000 bottles were made. You get excellent value here.

The 2010 Pinot Nero is beguiling. Sweet red berries, freshly cut flowers and mint are some of the notes that emerge from the glass. The mid-weight, gracious style seems best suited to near-term drinking, but the Pinot is always so pure here it is impossible not to wonder what might be possible if the aim was to make a more structured, serious wine. This is another hugely delicious wine from Les Cretes. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. No one has done more to put the Valle d’Aosta on the map of consumers in this country than Les Cretes and proprietor Costantino Charrere. This is a strong set of new releases that highlight the unique qualities of the Valle d’Aosta’s many indigenous red and white varieties. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The estate's 2009 Pinot Nero offers up sweet candied berries, flowers and spices in a delicate, medium-bodied style. As always, the Pinot Nero here is a touch on the elusive, ethereal side. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799