The 2007 Fumin Vigne la Tour is the most explosive of these reds from Les Cretes. Jammy dark cherries, new leather, spices and flowers burst from this expressive, refined wine. As rich as this is, the wine never loses its essential minerality, poise and focus. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2006 Fumin Vigne La Tour opens with scents of roasted coffee beans, sweet herbs, wild cherries and earthiness that are woven together gracefully on the palate. This eloquent, expressive wine reveals tons of pure breed in a medium-bodied style. The finish is long, pure and beautifully articulated. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2021. From top to bottom this is a superb set of wines from Les Cretes that form essential drinking for readers who want to learn more about the wines of Valle d’Aosta.Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2005 Fumin Vigne La Tour is made from an indigenous variety believed to be related to Syrah. It offers up an exciting array of smoke, wild berries, herbs and earthiness in a somewhat rustic but pleasing style. The tannins remains somewhat rough around the edges, yet the wine’s fruit helps give the wine a measure of balance. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2004 Fumin Vigne LaTour, made from the indigenous variety of the same name, presents jammy dark fruit and crushed black pepper overtones with excellent concentration as well as length. Fumin is believed to be related to Lagrein and this wine shows many similarities to that variety’s flavor profile. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2016. Les Cretes is undoubtedly the best-known estate in the Valle d’Aosta. Proprietor Costantino Charrere makes a wide range of wines from both indigenous and international varieties.Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799