The 2008 Syrah Coteau La Tour shows off a cool, mineral-infused array of sweet red berries, flowers, menthol and tobacco. This is very much a cold-climate Syrah built on energy and drive, but the wine fleshes out nicely on the mid-palate while retaining its essential personality. The long, polished finish is very nicely done. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. No one has done more to put the Valle d’Aosta on the map of consumers in this country than Les Cretes and proprietor Costantino Charrere. This is a strong set of new releases that highlight the unique qualities of the Valle d’Aosta’s many indigenous red and white varieties. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2007 Syrah Coteau la Tour is all black olives, wild cherries, earthiness, violets and mountain herbs. A clean vein of minerality speaks to the cold-weather, wiry personality of the wine. Crushed flowers, raspberries, minerals and leather linger on a finish that continues to gain focus as the wine sits in the glass. This is a pretty Syrah, but it definitely needs to be opened in advance for some of the more rustic aromas to blow off. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2017. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2006 Coteau La Tour is a rich, medium to full-bodied wine loaded with black cherries, spices, and leather, all of which come together in a big, powerful style. The wine offers exceptional elegance and purity, most notably on the finish. This is Lot.8-A06. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021. From top to bottom this is a superb set of wines from Les Cretes that form essential drinking for readers who want to learn more about the wines of Valle d’Aosta. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The single-vineyard 2005 Coteau La Tour is 100% Syrah that spent nine months in 300-liter French oak barrels. This polished, full-bodied red is loaded with ripe dark fruit, sweet spices, toasted oak and earthiness. Made in a full-bodied style, the wine offers outstanding balance, particularly in the way the tannins are beautifully folded into the layers of fruit. This is a terrific effort. The vintage for this wine is indicated by the last two digits in the lot number: L 12-A05. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The 2004 Coteau la Tour is a fully-flavored wine packed with jammy blueberries and blackberries, spices and earthiness. Silky-textured on the palate, it offers outstanding length and finessed tannins in a fruit-driven style. This is a superb effort from Les Cretes. The Coteau la Tour is 100% Syrah. Because of regulatory restrictions it must be labeled as Vin de Table. The bottle I tasted is identified by the code L 9-A04 on the front label. The last two digits indicate the vintage, 2004. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2012. Les Cretes is undoubtedly the best-known estate in the Valle d’Aosta. Proprietor Costantino Charrere makes a wide range of wines from both indigenous and international varieties. Importer: Domaine Select, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799