Pertimali’s 2005 Fili di Seta, from vineyards in Montalcino, is a blend of 60% Sangiovese and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in French oak. The fruit positively explodes on the palate, with layers of wild cherries, grilled herbs, spices and tobacco. The aromas and flavors are already a touch forward, and the Fili di Seta doesn’t look to be built for the long-term. It should provide fabulous drinking over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017. I have to admit Pertimali has become a big question mark over the last few years. Like many readers, I was weaned on the great Brunellos of the 1980s and 1990s that built the estate’s reputation. More recently, though, I have encountered far more variability than should be the case with a property of this level – or any level – for that matter. I have also received quite a few emails from readers describing an unusually high level of bottle variation. Unfortunately this year I can’t recommend Pertimali’s wines from their Querciolina property in Maremma. Both the 2007 Montecucco Sangiovese and 2007 Maremma Toscana show serious technical flaws that harm not only Pertimali, but an entire region that is struggling to prove its relevance. The typical reader might very well ask if the Montecucco appellation is capable of yielding noteworthy wines at all when one of Tuscany’s most storied estates can’t seem to get it right, which is a real shame and an injustice to all of the hard working, diligent producers of that area. For now, I urge readers to taste the Pertimali wines before making any purchasing decisions. Importer: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769

The 2001 Fili di Seta, a Sangiovese-Cabernet blend, is a bit less full than the excellent 2000, but is admirably expressive of red and black currant fruit, herbs, and graphite, while the silky texture echoes the name of the wine, “silk threads” in Italian. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The 2000 Fili di Seta, which adds 40% Cabernet to the Sangiovese, is a dark ruby with garnet highlights. A bit less saturated than expected (but the hot 2000 vintage was not one of deep colors at Montalcino), it is both fragrant and potent on the nose, with warm, alcoholic aromas of cassis, smoke, and macerated plums. The flavors, rich and silky, are concentrated, forceful, and elegant with much ripe fruit and sweet and spicy notes from the very well balanced oak. Drink: 2004-2010. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The 1998 Fili di Seta (a barrique-aged blend of 60% Sangiovese and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon) is a dark ruby/purple-colored, full-bodied, sweet, luscious offering. Rich and dense, it boasts abundant quantities of spicy new oak as well as fruit, earth, leather, black currants, and tobacco. Despite the addition of Cabernet Sauvignon, it has not lost any of its Tuscan typicity. Consume it over the next 10-15 years.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The 1997 Vigna Fili di Seta vino da tavola (75% Sangiovese and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon) offers a flamboyant nose of cedar wood, melted chocolate, underbrush, smoke, and red/black fruits. Medium-bodied, with gorgeous levels of dense, concentrated fruit nicely complemented by subtle new oak, this long, rich, opulently-textured wine should be drunk over the next 6-7 years. A Marc de Grazia Selection, imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300