To avoid confusing American consumers, only the word “Lois” appears on the main label; the niggling details about grape variety, vintage and origin are in small print on the back. It’s an attempt at creating a branded Austrian wine, which should succeed if the quality of what’s in the bottle remains this high. It’s light and minerally, with hints of celery stalk, underripe honeydew and green plums. Finishes tart and clean.——M.S.(11/15/2003)—— 86