Ripe and full-bodied, with an enormous explosion of fruity black currants, cherry pie filling, licorice and cocoa flavors. Could have more acidic brightness, though, which makes it a bit heavy. Might develop in the bottle for a few years.——S.H.(5/1/2009)—— 86

Clos Pepe has vaulted into the front ranks of California Pinot Noir vineyards, and Loring has captured its terroir perfectly with this dry, complex young wine. It combines a silky elegance with enormous fruit flavors of blackberries, cherries, cola and Asian spices, wrapped into the vineyard’s signature rich tannins and crisp acids. Drink this brilliant Pinot Noir now through 2012.——S.H.(6/1/2008)—— 94