Carillon’s 2007 Puligny-Montrachet represents an assemblage from no fewer than 11 named sites, which are vinified in three lots. Grapefruit, orange, lemon, and quince give a lusciously citric impression underlain by firm stoniness; with a good sense of stuffing let also of lift; the whole effect being a bit Loire Chenin-like. Hints of toasted, salted nuts and peach kernel in the clear finish strike more typical Cote d’Or themes. I imagine that this will be worth following for at least 3-4 years. Carillon started picking the last of August, which he points out is exactly a week later than conventional calculations based on the early date of flowering would have led one to predict. He chaptalized most wines around a degree, to arrive at finished alcohol levels of 13-13.5% Carillon’s wines spend approximately a year in barrel – 15-20% new – with the lees stirred, followed by six months in tank. Importers: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990 and Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

Fresh flowers and honeyed minerals can be found in the nose of the 2003 Puligny-Montrachet (white). An easygoing plump wine, it offers spiced mineral flavors in its silky, light to medium-bodied personality. Drink it over the next 3 years. Importers: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802; Neal Rosenthal Wine Merchant, New York, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990; Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel. (516) 364-1850; and, for the “Cuvee Nicole,” the same wine as the village Puligny-Montrachet, Kysela Pere et Fils, Fran Kysela, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228

There is an appealing aromatic richness to the 2002 Puligny-Montrachet’s mineral-scented nose. Light to medium-bodied, it reveals a satiny-textured personality filled with liquefied minerals as well as gravel. Its compressed finish prevented a higher score. Drink it over the next 2-4 years.

The 2001 Puligny-Montrachet was undergoing the bottling process when I visited the estate, it was therefore tasted both from tank and bottle. White flowers and lemons can be found in its nose. A light to medium-bodied, supple, satin-textured wine, it displays juicy pear and citrus flavors. Drink it over the next 4 years. To Jacques Carillon, this estate’s winemaker, “the 2001s are wines of richness and fat, with round personalities and excellent balance. They have a great deal in common with the 2000s.” This highly-respected estate’s winemaking philosophies include leaving the wines to ferment on their lees for a year in barrel, then racking them with only the finest lees into stainless steel vats in the August following the harvest. Six months later, in February, the wines are fined, then racked again in March before being filtered and bottled. The estate’s village offering has a slightly shorter elevage, and is bottled in January. Importers: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802; Neal Rosenthal Wine Merchant, New York, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990; Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel. (516) 364-1850; and, for the “Cuvee Nicole”, the same wine as the village Puligny-Montrachet, Kysela Pere et Fils, Fran Kysela, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228

The Puligny-Montrachet has an immensely expressive nose (something quite rare for a young wine from this producer) of tropical fruits, spices, and anise. This super village offering is densely packed with fat and rich white fruits and spices, yet is well-balanced. This medium-bodied wine isn't particularly complex and won't make old bones, but it does deliver an enormous amount of pleasure. Drink it over the next 4 years. Importers: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802, Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyard, Shekomeko, NY; tel (800) 910-1990, Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel (516) 364-1850 and, under the "Cuvee Nicole" label, Fran Kysela, Winchester, VA; tel (540) 722-9228.