From a hillside vineyard, the 1999 Condrieu Coteau de Breze displays good delineation as well as that liquid mineral characteristic found in top-notch Condrieu. It is not very opulent, but fine and poised, with restrained notes of apricot jam, orange marmalade, and honeysuckle. It should be consumed over the next several years. Importer: Michel-Schlumberger, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218

The outstanding 1998 Condrieu Coteau de Breze, produced from a hillside vineyard near the village of Limony, with a full southerly exposure, exhibits orange marmalade, honeysuckle, and ripe apricot scents, subtle notes of new oak, top-notch richness, and excellent symmetry. Drink this gorgeous Condrieu over the next several years. Importers: A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620 and Michel-Schlumberger, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218

The 1996 Condrieu Coteau de Breze is a riper and richer (compared with the regular cuvee), off-dry wine with medium to full body, residual sugar, and plenty of Condrieu's tell-tale apricot/peach/honeysuckle-like fragrance and flavor. It should be consumed over the next 1-3 years. Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620

This wine is a pure, medium-bodied, dry Condrieu with excellent aromatics (honeysuckle and peaches), considerable finesse, good freshness, and well-integrated, crisp acidity. Although not a blockbuster, this well-made Condrieu will offer delicious drinking over the next 1-2 years. This wine was tasted in September, 1995, from bottle, unless otherwise noted. Prices quoted are based on the current exchange rate of five francs per dollar. Importer: Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620