Moreau's 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos saw fully 20 months on the lees in stainless steel, and it has turned out well, unwinding in the glass with aromas of apples, oranges, confit citrus and fresh pastry, complemented by a delicate top note of orange blossom. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and muscular, with a rich and layered core, ripe acids and a long finish.

The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos sees 24 months in stainless steel, of which half is on the fine lees. It has a lifted, yellow flower and walnut-scented, rather smoky bouquet that is harmonious and detailed. It actually gains intensity in the glass with just a few swirls. The palate is well balanced with a strong saline component, but then it clams up towards the structured finish as if to say, come back in 2-3 years, which you should. This is one to watch.

The 2013 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos spent 24 months in stainless steel, half of that on the lees. It has a commendable, well-defined grassy, granite-scented bouquet that is extremely focused and nicely poised. The palate is fresh on the entry with Granny Smith apples, pear and a touch of white pepper, not the longest Les Clos you will ever encounter, but at the end of the day well-crafted, given the pressures during the season.