Pato is the master of the broody grape that is Baga, the grape of the central coastal region of Bairrada and Beiras in Portugal. He tames the tannins, smooths the rough edges and makes a great, soft, generous wine. With flavors of yellow plums and thyme with good acidity, this ripe wine has a fine, razor-sharp streak of tannin holding it all together. ——R.V.(11/15/2006)—— 87