Luis Pato, whose name means “duck” in Portuguese, is the man who has tamed the local Baga grape by keeping its acidity and tannins in check. Made from 70-year-old vines, this is a stunningly concentrated wine, with sweet chocolate flavors and silky, tarry tannins. The juicy black-currant fruit makes it very drinkable. —R.V.——R.V.(12/31/2002)—— 92