The crisp, light-bodied, pungent, potent non-vintage Light Fino Jarana is redolent of the smells and flavors of roasted nuts. Importer: A Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897

More yellow than Lustau’s manzanilla, Jarana is a lovely, proper fino with a nose of iodine, lemon blossom and popcorn. The palate is staunch and doesn’t back down; the high-toned nut and citrus flavors seem classic and elevated. And the finish is intense and frames everything in walnut oil and toast.——M.S.(6/1/2009)—— 89