A superbly balanced example of this selection, the 2020 Ermitage de l'Orée—sourced from the clay soils of Les Murets—features scents of crushed stone, toasted grain, white peach and ripe melon. Showing no ill effects from its recent bottling at the beginning of September, it's full-bodied, silky and elegant, with a long, harmonious finish.

Showing considerably better than it did the last time I tasted it, the 2019 Ermitage de l'Orée boasts notes of toasted grain and ripe, honeyed peaches. Full-bodied and expansive, it's opulent, richly textured and long, with waves of flavor echoing on the finish. Any bitter notes seem to have been seamlessly incorporated into the wine's impressive mouthfeel.

There are a substantial 909 cases of the 2017 Ermitage de l'Orée. Sourced from Les Murets' clay soils, it combines hints of struck flint with honey, pear and baking spices on the nose. Full-bodied, with a layered sense of richness and ample concentration, it's a big but balanced wine. While it lacks the zest and freshness of the 2016, it should still drink well for close to two decades.

As usual, Chapoutier's sélections parcellaires are stunning. The 2016 Ermitage de l'Oree from Les Murets' clay soils combines hints of honey and toast with tangerine zest and melon. It's 100% Marsanne, yet shows exuberant, nearly tropical flavors and absolutely no bitterness. It's full-bodied, completely mouth coating and rich, yet it finishes with zesty vitality and sherbet-like cleanliness. It should drink well for at least two decades.