Scents of crushed stone and white peach mark the nose of the 2020 Saint-Peray. This Marsanne is medium-bodied, fresh and zesty, with a silky texture and long-lasting finish. It should drink well for at least another couple of years.

The all-Marsanne 2018 Saint-Peray was fermented and aged in demi-muids. It gives up scents of peach and melon, then fleshes out on the medium to full-bodied palate into silky notes of lemon custard, while being zesty and briny on the finish. I'd opt for drinking this young, over the next couple of years.

All Marsanne aged in demi-muids, the 2017 Saint-Peray features scents of pencil shavings, pear and melon. Broad on the palate—even a bit fat—it's reined in (slightly) by hints of white pepper and elongated by notes of brine and citrus zest on the finish. Drink it over the next couple of years.