A tank-aged blend of Grenache and Syrah, Chapoutier's 2019 Rasteau shows the traditional dusty, baked-fruit character of the appellation. Blackberries and plums, scorched earth and hints of espresso and dark chocolate appear on the full-bodied palate, which, despite the ripeness, doesn't seem that rich or concentrated this year, with gentle, silky tannins that lap gently at the edges of the tongue.

Black cherries and blueberries mingle easily on the nose of the 2018 Rasteau, which looks to be a terrific success in this difficult vintage. Medium to full-bodied, it's supple and generous, without any of the heat or over-ripeness that can sometimes affect this appellation, and it's long and silky on the finish.

The hidden, reasonably priced gem in the Chapoutier lineup is the company's consistently fine Rasteau. The 2017 Rasteau is a blend of 50% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre, aged in concrete. While blackberries and blueberries mingle on the nose, this is full-bodied, richly tannic and concentrated. Drink it over the next 3-4 years with hearty dishes.

Chapoutier's 2016 Rasteau is a blend of 60% Grenache and 20% each Mourvèdre and Syrah. Aged in concrete, it combines savory notes of black olive and roasted meat with blueberries and cherries. It's full-bodied, supple and ripe, with a long, slightly warm finish.

The 2015 Rasteau is dominated by its Grenache component, which accounts for 70% to 80% of the blend. It's full-bodied and dense, with supple but concentrated tannins that leave a dry, dusty sensation on the finish. Licorice/fennel notes add freshness to the dark plum fruit, but don't expect this to age for a long time; I'd opt to drink it over the next 5 years.