The 2010 Breganze Cabernet Sauvignon Palazzotto gives you a generous taste of Fratta’s bounty at a much lower price. The wine showcases the volcanic soils of the Breganze DOC. Indeed, the mineral dryness is truly exceptional: It runs down the back of the wine like a long zipper on a tight black dress. Palazzotto is layered and rich with territory-driven notes of dried earth and garden herb that give it extra liveliness. This wine offers a clean and well-made portrait of Cabernet Sauvignon: You’d never tire of drinking it. Drink 2014-2020. There are wine regions that make brands, and brands that make regions. Maculan (the brand) put Breganze (the region) on the world enological map. One of the most significant winemaking forces in the Veneto, Maculan eventually grew bigger than the territory that shaped it. At odds with the winemaking guidelines of the Breganze DOC, this historic estate decided to segment its production into two schools of wine: The lower-priced DOC products and the higher-priced IGT offerings. “This was an obligatory step,” says Maria Vittoria Maculan, one of Fausto’s daughters. The good news for consumers is that both are excellent despite the huge, surreal differences in price. I’m also told that Maculan will soon introduce two new wines made with the Recantina and the Marzemino grapes respectively. I look forward to tasting them very soon. Importer: Winebow, www.winebow.com

Fausto Maculan’s 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Palazzotto offers up blackberries, grilled herbs, violets and minerals in a medium-bodied, vinous style that is hugely appealing. It shows wonderful depth and plumpness, along with a vibrant vein of acidity that is typical of reds from northern Italy. I would be tempted to see how the Palazzotto might age, at least for a few years. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2001 Palazzotto, a Cabernet Sauvignon, offers concentration and muscle, classic aromas and flavors of berry fruit, tar, vanilla, and pepper, and a smooth, medium weight texture. Drink: 2004-2010. Importer: Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Light and supple, a Cabernet that leans toward red cherry and spice flavors in a delicate style that is appealing to drink now. Has a bit of a leafy edge.??–null??Region: Italy / Vino da Tavola-Veneto Select to Add

Lean and woody, with slightly sour and mossy flavors on the finish detract from an otherwise decent, well-balanced and modestly concentrated wine.??–null??Region: Italy / Vino da Tavola-Veneto Select to Add