One of the more reserved wines on the day of my tasting was the 2020 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières (Domaine des Héritiers Jadot), a medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive wine evocative of citrus zest, struck matches, white flowers and crisp green orchard fruit. Tightly wound but intensely flavored, it concludes with a chalky finish.

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières (Domaine des Héritiers Jadot) has also turned out very well in bottle, delivering an inviting bouquet of citrus zest and white currants mingled with notions of buttered popcorn, white flowers and vanilla pod. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's rich but vibrant, with a deep core of fruit and a tangy spine of acidity.

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières (Domaine des Héritiers Jadot) is showing very well from bottle, unwinding in the glass with a youthfully reserved nose of citrus oil, bee pollen, freshly baked bread and crisp orchard fruit. Medium to full-bodied, taut and concentrated, with impressive depth and chalky extract for the vintage, this is one of the comparatively rare 2018 white Burgundies that is really built for the cellar, and it represents a tremendous success for Jadot.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières (Domaine des Héritiers Jadot) is a worthy successor to the superb 2016 rendition, unfurling in the glass with an incipiently complex bouquet of lemon oil, vanilla pod, dried white flowers and gingerbread. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, with an elegantly glossy attack, wonderful concentration and a bright line of animating acidity, concluding with a long and pure finish. This is one of Jadot's finest white premiers crus this year.