The 2017 Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens (Domaine Louis Jadot) offers up aromas of sweet cherries, espresso roast and rich soil tones. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and succulent, with moderate concentration and chalky structuring tannins.

The 2016 Pommard 1er Cru les Rugiens has quite a meaty, dried blood-tinged bouquet that gives the aromatics personality. It gains clarity with time and offers attractive oyster shell aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannin, crisp acidity, nicely poised with a strict, quite liner, très Pommard finish that just needs to develop more complexity.

The 2015 Pommard 1er Cru les Rugiens has an intense, powerful bouquet with layers of ripe wild strawberry, raspberry and cranberry; there is great volume and drive here with floral scents (iris and rose petal) emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple ripe red cherry fruit, a little rustic compared to the Pommard Epenots, broad-shouldered with firm and insistent grip. But I kind of like the "unruliness" of this Rugiens and it stands it in good stead for several years bottle age. This is a great Pommard from winemaker Frederic Barnier and his team.

The 2014 Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens has a crisp redcurrant and strawberry pastille-scented bouquet that perhaps does not quite have the complexity of the Grands Epenots. The palate is supple on the entry with a gentle grip. There is good density to this Rugiens, a little sinew towards the finish and perhaps more oak to be subsumed, so afford this 2-3 years in bottle.

The 2013 Pommard 1er Cru les Rugiens has that most complex and floral of Jadot's Pommards this year: well defined and almost Volnay-like in style. The palate is medium-bodied with fine supple tannins, a keen line of acidity and a dash of spice toward the finish that gives this commendable lift. Fine.