This wine is slightly more subdued and downplayed compared to the other protagonists of the Malvirà portfolio. The 2015 Roero Riserva Renesio takes small and steady steps to increased intensity, with dried cherry and forest berry framed by camphor ash and powdered licorice. The tannins are drier here, and the wine is a bit more astringent overall.

The 2010 Roero Riserva Renesio is a tight and tonic red wine. The mouthfeel is compact and streamlined with lasting aromas of wild berry, cherry cola, grilled herb and crushed river stone.

The estate’s 2008 Roero Riserva Renesio emerges from the glass with dark red cherries, roasted coffee beans, licorice and dried herbs. There is an attractive juiciness to the 2008, but overall, this is a fairly simply, accessible Roero marred by unclean aromatics and awkward balance. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. Malvira, one of the top estates in Roero, can usually be counted on for wines of distinction. This year’s set of new releases, however, is the most uneven I have ever tasted from the winery. The whites are strong, but all of the reds I tasted (including some that didn’t make it into this report) are disappointing to various degrees, especially considering the estate’s long track record. Various American importers, including: Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale FL; tel. (954) 530-4021; Domace Vino, Shoreview, MN; tel. (612) 501-5799; Dionysus Imports, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 822-8007

The 2007 Roero Riserva Renesio is impressive. It possesses remarkable intensity and power in its dark fruit, flowers, mint and spices, all of which meld together beautifully. The Renesio shows fabulous depth and richness through to the finish. This dark, virile Roero is well worth the effort of tracking down. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Malvira is one of Roero's most inspired producers. In particular readers should focus on the estate's Arneis and Roero bottlings. Importers: Beverly Malen Imports Inc., Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 227-9463, Ibanez Pleven Offerings, New York, NY; tel. (212) 243-9463; Domace Vino, Shoreview, MN; tel. (612) 501-5799; Dionysus Imports, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 822-8007; Imports Inc., Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 227-9463; Triage Wines, Portland, OR; tel. (206) 883-0543; Trilussa Wine Company, San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 499-8466; Natural Wines, Boulder, CO; tel.-(303) 588-6122; Vino Vino, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 665-7515

There’s a note of wet earth or rubber that emerges from the bouquet before the fruit tones do. Once the wine is given more time in the glass, dried prune and cassis come through. This wine’s tight, compact style would pair with most easy meat dishes. ——M.L.(9/1/2011)—— 85