A bit better (but not by much) is the 2008 Cabernet Franc Proprietor’s Reserve. Like all the Proprietor’s Reserve wines from Maryhill, it is a more structured and more intense wine. Balsam wood, clove, cinnamon, sage, violets, and black currant aromas set the stage for a velvety-textured, smooth wine with 1-2 years of aging potential. However, it can be approached now. Maryhill Winery’s offerings come at two levels, straight varietal cuvees and the Proprietor’s Reserve. There are excellent values at both tiers.Tel. (509) 773-1976; www.maryhillwinery.com

Maryhill’s upper tier wines begin with the 2006 Cabernet Franc Proprietor’s Reserve (100% varietal) which spent 20 months in 40% new French oak. Dark ruby-colored, it delivers an exceptionally spicy nose of clove, cinnamon, sage, and incense that jumps from the glass. Medium to full-bodied, on the palate it reveals an elegant personality, savory flavors, some underlying structure, and a 40-second finish. Drink this well-made effort from 2011 through 2021. Based on this superb and well-priced portfolio of wines, Maryhill Winery merits serious attention.Tel. (877) 627-9445; www.maryhillwinery.com

I really liked the winery’s 2003 Cab Franc, for its dark, black fruits laced with licorice and streaks of tarry tannin. What’s missing here is that defining structure; they’ve slipped this one into the soft, smooth, generic red category. Sweet fruit, some smoke and a bit more stiffness to the tannins still make this wine a relative standout, but it’s lost its edge.——P.G.(8/1/2007)—— 87

A real success, Maryhill’s exceptional cab franc shows dark, black fruits laced with licorice and streaks of tarry tannin. Structured and supple, dense and just hinting at decadence. ——P.G.(6/1/2006)—— 90