Peat, blond tobacco, rosemary, kirsch, plum paste and black raspberry preserves on the nose of Mas Belles Eaux's 2008 Languedoc Les Coteaux presage a comparable complexity on a firm but juicy palate suffused with a mixture of salt, iodine, crushed stone, cherry pit, rosemary oil, and smoky black tea, all reflecting the sort of diversity and pronounced mineral nature of flavors from Caux soils. The resinous aspect of the finish here doesn't obscure the purity of berry fruit or keep the wine from delivering energy and genuine refreshment - on the contrary, it's part of the invigoration. I suspect that this outstanding value will continue to reward attention for at least 3-4 more years. While due to press of time I had to rely on samples of recent Mas Belles Eaux releases, I did make use of a half hour noon break in my travel schedule one day to walk their vineyards on the edge of Caux, which are as impeccably cared-for as I expected, knowing that this now nearly decade-old domaine was created by the A.X.A. insurance group (owners of Chateau Pichon Baron, etc.) now directed by Christian Seely. The estate is one of the few to have adopted the ultra-umbrella appellation "Languedoc" almost from its inception four years ago. Les Coteaux, the estate's principle wine, is a blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvedre reflecting diverse variations on chalk-clay and cobbled Villafranchian soils, and matured for 15 months in barriques of 1-3 years age. The Saint Helene bottling is not handled much differently, but comes from the highest, best-drained parcels on the estate, and is composed of Syrah, Grenache, and Carignan.Imported by Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (919) 769-3000
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