From the very tiny appellation of Clairette de Bellegarde, their terrific 2010 is 100% Clairette, tank-fermented and aged. A crisp, perfumed wine with lots of flowery notes intermixed with white citrus and a hint of nectarine, it is medium-bodied, zesty, and a totally delightful example of a dry white and of Clairette’s potential. Drink it over the next several years. Mas Carlot is run by the female half of the husband and wife team of Nathalie Blanc-Mares and Cyril Mares. Cyril is responsible for the Mas des Bressades wines, which are consistently excellent, as are these.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

Mas Carlot fashions one of the most distinctive wines in France, the Clairette de Bellegarde, from vines planted in 1947. The 2009 is the finest example of this cuvee I have yet tasted. Floral notes intermixed with hints of tangerines, nectarines, white peaches and wet rocks emerge from this light to medium-bodied white. It represents a naked expression of winemaking that has lots of finesse, perfume and overall character. Drink it over the next 1-2 years. This is one of the best run estates in Costieres de Nimes. Owned by the husband and wife team of Nathalie Blanc-Mares and Cyril Mares, with the charming, passionate Nathalie running Mas Carlot and Cyril in charge of the neighboring estate of Mas des Bressades (another high quality/ value producer).Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

It should be easy to stump your wine-geek buddies with this one. At once honeyed and rich, exotic and tropical, this is a rarity they're unlikely to even know exists. A mere hint of bitterness on the finish of this medium-bodied wine nicely balances the ripe tropical flavors. Drink now.——J.C.(4/1/2010)—— 88