The 2010 Salice Salentino Passamante jumps from the glass with dark cherries, plums, licorice and tobacco. It possesses lovely inner perfume and plenty of juiciness in an up-front style supported by firm yet well-integrated tannins. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2014. Li Veli is one of the most exciting wineries to come on the scene in the last few years. The Falvo family has done a great job ratcheting up the quality following their sale of Avignonesi in Montepulciano. As has been the case since Li Veli was founded, many of the gems in this range are found at the more modest price points. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

The estate’s 2009 Negroamaro Passamante is another impeccably balanced offering. Dark red fruit, mint and flowers come through nicely with lovely richness and depth, all while avoiding heaviness. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

The 2007 Salento Rosso Passamante offers good varietal complexity and definition on a medium-bodied, delicate frame. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405