The 2009 Greco di Tufo Nova Serra, from a vineyard in Montefusco near the winery, is a big white loaded with personality. A melange of smoke, ash and minerals flows gracefully from this textured, multi-dimensional Greco di Tufo. A long, polished finish rounds things out in style. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Mastroberardino is one of Italy's most historic properties. My vertical tasting of the estate's Taurasi (published in Issue 190), with vintages back to 1928, was a revelation.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2008 Greco di Tufo Nova Serra reveals subtle mineral nuances woven with white peaches, flowers and smoke. Deceptively medium in body, the Nova Serra impresses for its length and classy, elegant personality. This is a terrific wine for the dinner table, where the bright acidity will pair beautifully with a variety of dishes. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Mastroberardino is one of the historic names in Campanian oenology. In recent years the estate has come on strong with a number of superb wines that fully live up to the estate’s reputation.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Nova Serra opens with a luminous color accented by golden highlights followed by aromas of melon, peach and Golden Delicious apple. The wine is silky and creamy on the close, and those qualities make it a good partner to shellfish or risotto. ——M.L.(3/1/2011)—— 88