The 2009 Greco di Tufo Nova Serra, from a vineyard in Montefusco near the winery, is a big white loaded with personality. A melange of smoke, ash and minerals flows gracefully from this textured, multi-dimensional Greco di Tufo. A long, polished finish rounds things out in style. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Mastroberardino is one of Italy's most historic properties. My vertical tasting of the estate's Taurasi (published in Issue 190), with vintages back to 1928, was a revelation.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620