More interesting is the 2006 Syrah. This dense ruby/purple-colored offering displays notes of pepper, underbrush, and blackberries, medium to full body, excellent purity, and a long finish. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. . Matanzas Creek Winery remains a work in progress as proprietor Jess Jackson moves aggressively to get this estate back to its glory days of the early 1990s. Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel.(866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707; www.vinluxfinewines.com

The lightweight, crisp 2004 Syrah is decent, but comes up short in complexity, richness, and depth. It should be consumed over the next few years. Tel. (800) 590-6464; fax (707) 571-0156