The grapey, fresh and young 2014 El Pícaro is produced with Tempranillo grapes and bottled unoaked. This wine is polished and soft with a leafy character. Drink it chilled and it would make your barbecue a wine success. 250,000 bottles produced.

The 2013 El Picaro feels too young and a little reductive with the profile of the fresh, unoaked wine with aromas of wild berries and licorice and a medium-bodied, fruit-driven and straightforward palate. Drink now. Matsu belongs to the Vintae group from Rioja (Hacienda Lopez de Haro). In Toro they have a strong image with labels wearing full-size pictures of men from three different generations for wines called Picaro (the young guy), the experienced man and the grandfather. They landed in the appellation in 2006 and own no vineyards, but control 200 hectares, some of them extremely old, one of the attractive characteristics that brought them to Toro in the first place. The wines are well-crafted, fermented in cement vats in a large winery and aged in a mixture of old and new oak barrels in a commercial style, following the same path as their wines from Rioja. Importer: Askari O.H. LLC. Austin, TX; tel. (512) 928-979, www.askarioh.com

The 2011 El Picaro comes with its distinctive, eye-catching label – a headshot of a young, capped, mysterious gentleman who stares at you intently throughout dinner. This pure Tinto de Toro has a decent, quite precocious nose of macerated dark cherries and a touch of brine that is simple but effective. The palate is medium-bodied with rustic tannins but good freshness and a clean, punchy finish that offers dry, crisp black fruit. It is not complex, but this has character. Drink now-2014. Importer: Askari O.H. LLC, Texas; www.askarioh.com

The 2009 El Picaro displays just how superb the vintage was in this region. Made from 100% Tinta de Toro, this purple-colored wine displays a fragrant bouquet of mineral, lavender, licorice, black cherry, and blackberry. Full-bodied, dense, rich, and concentrated, it has layers of spicy black fruit, good balance, and a lengthy, fruit-filled finish. This outstanding value over-delivers in a big way. Drink it over the next 5 years. The wines of Matsu Bodega y Vinedos Ecologicos are produced from biodynamically farmed estate vineyards in the DO of Toro. Importer: The Enye Group, Chicago, IL; www.enyegroup.com