The 2009 Chardonnay gives moderately intense aromas of grapefruit and lemon curd with a faint hint of mandarin peel. Crisp with a good concentration of citrus fruit flavors, a medium body and a medium-long finish, this wine will hit the spot anytime. Drink it now. You don't usually get much for around $10 nowadays, but here are two solidly made McPherson bargains, produced under the direction of Alister Purbrick of Tahbilk and Andrew McPherson.Importers: Epic, Santa Cruz, CA; Phone: 1800-322-3742 & Classic Wine Imports (Massachusetts only), Norwood, MA; tel. (781) 352-1100

The bouquet is like a puffy cloud of confectioner’s sugar, laced with a ribbon of tight citrus. Tropical, buttery fruit shows in the mouth, with an impression of residual powdered sugar that lingers from the nose. Well balanced, if a little sweet for the panel’s taste.——W.E.(7/1/2004)—— 85