Very good, savory Amador Zin, exuberantly rich in briary mountain wild blackberry, blueberry and loganberry flavors, with a huge dusting of spice: white pepper, black pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon, allspice, and, for the finale, a sweet dose of creme de cassis-laced cola. Yet the wine is thoroughly dry. Shows Zin’s ability to combine rusticity with elegance.——S.H.(10/1/2007)—— 91