Fortunately, as you go up in price the over-ripeness seems to be less evident. The top-of-the-range 2015 Melis, which is meant to express the extreme ripeness of Garnacha, shows a little more character. For fans of ultra ripe, oaky wines. 4,500 bottles.

The 2009 Melis is from 12-year-old vines, aged in oak for 18 months. It has a precocious bouquet of black cherries, cassis and a touch of violet. The palate is sweet and spicy on the entry and there is good fruit concentration, but once again there is little in the way of focus towards the finish. Drink now-2017. Importer: The Eqwinerie; no telephone number available.

The 2006 Melis is 62% Garnacha 19% Carinena, and the balance Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon aged for 16 months in several sizes of French oak. It serves up a similar aromatic array but offers considerably more on the palate, Full-bodied and still tightly wound, it is dense, layered, and rich with gobs off savory black fruit and spice notes. It will benefit from 3-5 years of cellaring and have a drinking window extending from 2013 to 2026. Importer: Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661