Year in and year out, Mer Soleil’s Chardonnay is one of the biggest, most distinctive ones in California. The ’06 is almost like a late-harvest dessert wine, rich in apricot jam, pineapple custard and new oak butterscotch flavors, but for all the opulence, it’s entirely dry, and has zesty Monterey acidity. Almost a food group in itself, it will challenge chefs to rise to the occasion.——S.H.(4/1/2009)—— 93