Hard to figure why the Wagners of Caymus don’t put the fine Santa Lucia Highlands AVA on the front label, but there’s no questioning the quality of this wine. It’s brilliant in tropical fruit and pear flavors, with a lavish overlay of smoky oak and a very long, sweet finish. Has those citrusy, minerally Monterey acids that perk up the flavors, making them even richer. ——S.H.(2/1/2004)—— 92