This tastes like pure varietal Cabernet; it’s stiff and tightly wound, and the Horse Heaven Hills fruit has big, drying tannins. Give it some breathing time and it begins to broaden out, showing thin streaks of smoke and iron, along with brambly berry and cassis. This has the structure to age, and should develop further in the bottle over the near term. ——P.G.(9/1/2011)—— 88

Black cherry fruit wrapped in licorice and coffee is the story here; right up front and bright with tart acids. There’s medium concentration and weight, but the wine ultimately falls away into some fairly stiff, slightly green tannins, leaving a chalky residue. It definitely needs food to show its best; preferably a grilled steak.——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 87

Medium to dark ruby-colored and revealing a spice, flower, and red/black fruit-scented nose, the 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Mercer Estate is a firm, backward wine. Readers with patience to wait for this wine's tannins to soften will enjoy its black currant, boysenberry, and tobacco-flavored character. Drink this medium-bodied wine between 2004 and 2012. Tel. (206) 463-3290.